Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and travelers alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive list of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "is a testament to its deep-rooted culinary traditions and lively food ecosystem," according to a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city comes as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the limelight for what has consistently defined its heart: an profound love for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on many street corners, there are little shops and stalls – lesser-known delights that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and involved. The cook beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however say that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will inspire more people around the world to learn these narratives and experience the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
